One of the three principal Champagne grapes. A black grape that goes into white sparkling wine, it ripens earlier than Pinot Noir with rounder fruit, lending blends approachability and early drinkability.
The name means "miller", from the white down on the underside of its leaves that looks dusted with flour. A mutation of Pinot Noir, its resistance to spring frost and ability to ripen in cool sites made it valuable in Champagne's Marne Valley. Varietal Champagnes are now made from it, shifting its reputation from supporting player to lead.
It rarely stands out in a blend, yet it is what makes Champagne delicious now rather than in ten years. Taste a varietal bottling and the red-apple fruit comes through with surprising clarity.