The principal grape of Soave. Restrained aromatics and firm acidity are finished by a bitter-almond note. From volcanic sites it gains salinity and mineral definition, and a few years in bottle bring a honeyed complexity.
An ancient variety said to have grown around Verona since Roman times. In the late 20th century mass production turned Soave into shorthand for cheap white and its reputation suffered, until producers in the Classico zone returned to low yields and restored the region's standing.
The nose is never showy, but the flavour builds as you drink. Anyone who thinks of Soave as cheap white should try a Classico producer. With a few years in bottle it becomes something else entirely.